Vintage

Vintage Restoration ~ Velvet Flocking Part One

Over the years, I have steadily amassed a lovely collection of vintage but some did not stand up well with the test of time. These “wounded birds” require a lot of TLC to revive them to be enjoyed for many mores years to come. Very rarely do I take on these big projects myself but when the most beautiful treasures come along, I feel compelled to take it under my wing. Late last summer I was very fortunate to come across this gorgeous vintage 3D floral applique dress, which is quite famous as the lovely Dita Von Teese owns one herself. Sadly, she was in very poor condition with the velvet flocking missing in many areas, several loose seams with a torn zipper therefore the seller decided it was too much for her to take on. Her loss was my gain…but I sure had a big undertaking on my hands.

The very first step was to ensure the dress was structurally sounds before focusing on the esthetics. I inspected every seam and zipper to confirm how much reinforcement was required. The front waist seam was letting go, the side zipper was ripped around the waist area and there was a tiny hole from the strain on the fabric. I suspect someone tried to force the zipper close meanwhile the dress was clearly too small for them. Although I am comfortable around a sewing machine, I decided to ask my mom for help as she knows zippers like a boss. Reinforcing the waist seam was super easy but the zipper mending took some finessing but we were successful. The zipper is sturdy again and fully functional despite missing one tooth on the track. Our inside patch job did the trick and cannot be seen from the outside. I’ll be sewing on a new hook and eye to replace the rusted one as well.

Now onto step two, esthetics! I consulted with the vintage community for recommendations on DIY techniques to restore the velvet flocking that was missing in several areas on the bodice and skirt. With a few suggestions in hand, I eventually landed on sourcing black flocking by the roll online. After watching tutorials and reading reviews on various brands, I decided to use “Silhouette Heat Transfer Material” from Craftdirect.com since no local stores carried it here. Once I had the Silhouette flocking in hand and compared it to the dress, I was confident it would be a good fit for the restoration project.

  1. To begin, I grabbed some trace paper and a fine Sharpie marker to create the stencils for the appliques. One by one, I traced the leaves on the bodice along with the branch located on the shoulder. Next, I traced the long branches on the skirt portion that were missing from the waist to the middle where the flocking was still present.
  2. After carefully cutting each stencil out, I then double and tripped checked on the dress to ensure they were correct.
  3. Since the heat transfer material is meant for a digital cutter, you only need to follow one very important thing…place the stencil on backwards, then trace! Make sure you have very sharp scissors for this part, I used hair scissors as they are more precise for this small detail work.
  4. TEST!!! Take your first applique and use a scrap piece of fabric to see if it will transfer correctly for your application.
  5. Using a hot iron (cotton setting, no steam), apply a piece of material over the heat transfer applique, and iron for 45-60 seconds. Let cool completely before trying to remove the protective plastic film. Success…now onto the real thing!!!
  6. Now trace all of your stencils onto (backwards) the roll of heat transfer material and cut them out very carefully, avoid any burred edges since that will show on the application. I suggest doing them one section at a time, it is less overwhelming that way.
  7. Take each applique and take the time to triple check that they match perfectly with dress. I had to painstakingly trim each one to mimic the original design, shaving off the slightest amounts to get them just right.
  8. Make sure all old flocking is scrapped off, I used my fingernails mostly to ensure the fabric would not be damaged. In some areas where there was a lot of patchiness, a sharp kitchen steak knife (not serrated) was necessary.
  9. Repeat steps 5-6 for each applique. Leave the protective film on until each section is complete to avoid damaging the new flocking.

As you can imagine, this is a very long tedious process and needs to be done precisely for the best results. Restoring the bodice portion of this beauty took approximately 3+ hours. One word of caution, make sure to clear away any heat transfer shaving from your project before applying the heat. This was a small mistake I made which resulted in tiny black marks on the cream fabric that I now have to treat as pesky stains. DOH!

Stay tuned for the completion of this restoration project…

 

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Categories: All Posts, Vintage | Tags: , , , | 1 Comment

An Introduction to Mid Century Vintage

Several months ago, I was asked to guest post for the lovely Miss Victory Violet while she traveled the world. I shared some very helpful tips for those looking to venture into the world of buying Mid Century vintage clothing. For those of you that missed it the first time around, now is your chance to read it here!

For years many years I was a diehard connoisseur of strictly vintage reproduction clothing as I found my proportions sadly did not coincide with those of the ladies from the 1950’s. Vintage clothing was something I admired from afar and envied the ladies that had the most gorgeous of collections in their closets. One faithful day, that all changed and I started to discover vintage dresses in my size and I have been building my collection ever since. Yes, it’s definitely a slippery slope and you’re constantly chasing the incredible high when you find that next treasure. Venturing into the world of vintage is like the unknown, there are SO MANY things to know and learn since these garments are well over 60 years old. Today I am going to share an introduction to 1950s (early 60s) buyers guide for those of you who wish to start building your own collection.

Day Wear:

One of the most common styles from the 1950s era is day dresses since women had to be well groomed even while performing household chores. Many of them are homemade or affordable department store brands that have lasted all these years due to quality fabric and craftsmanship. Homemade dresses generally range these days from $40-90+ and with a label $60-$120+. The prices are steadily increasing now that vintage seems to have hit the mainstream and the demand is greater than ever. If a piece has a unique print (novelty print), expect to pay a considerable amount more as there are many collectors out there seeking these fabulous prints. The wonderful thing about daywear, you can wear them just about anywhere and look fabulous in one-of-a-kind clothing.

Photo1If you’re like me, I am a HUGE fan of circle skirts! The 1950’s was the mecca for the most stunning circle skirts in every colour and print you could imagine. Vintage lovers can thank Dior for this stunning silhouette. In the late 40’s Dior debuted the “New Look” which emphasized a nipped waist and full skirt. Designers in the 50’s followed the fashion house’s example. From gorgeous floral, to stunning novelty prints, even Disney favorites like Lady & The Tramp to dazzling Mexican hand painted sequin designs. These often range from $40-$150+ depending on the condition and uniqueness of the print. In fact a Lady and the Tramp skirt just went for $680 on eBay! The great thing about these skirts, if they are not quite your size often times the button can be moved a couple inches either way or there’s a little trick I learned from a fellow vintage lover: take an elastic band to fasten the waist closed then cover it with a belt. Tada!

ElasticTrick

Click to enlarge image.

Viva Photo3The era also brought many Hawaiian inspired prints and dresses, which can go from day to night by accessorizing. These beautiful prints (which have been around since the 30’s) became popular in the 40’s due to WWII and the many servicemen and women occupying the islands. After the war they returned home with their beautiful Aloha shirts and dresses. With airplane travel becoming more common (and Hawaii becoming a state in 1959) Americans starting flocking to Hawaii on tropical vacations. In 1959 a man named Alfred Shaheen started making ready-made shirt and dresses for men and women. His incredible designs, textiles and construction put these garments above the rest. Oh, fun fact, in 1961 a guy named Elvis wore a red Shaheen shirt in a little movie called “Blue Hawaii”. Highly sought after designers like Surf ‘n Sand (an early 40’s brand of Alfred Shaheen), Kahala, and Kamehamaha along with Shaheen are the royalty of tropical inspired designs and highly sought after. A 1950s Shaheen dress will run anywhere from $200-500+ but truly worth the investment if you love his style. I began my collection a little over a year ago and now the proud owner of 8 Shaheens.

Photo4 Photo5Of note, ladies very rarely left the house without a hat and gloves! Women were even beautifully outfitted to go to the grocery store.

Evening Wear:

There are endless options when it comes to elegant evening wear from the 1950s-60s, they are origins of Old Hollywood Glamour that we all know and adore. First would be the classic fitted hourglass styles, with a hint of flair known as the mermaid silhouette. Whether you have a ball to attend or looking for a fabulous date night ensemble, the possibilities are endless. Beads, sequins, rhinestones, Lurex, satin, chiffon, they spared no glitz or detail.

Photo6Cocktail dresses are fabulous affordable options which were commonly worn during social gatherings like dinner parties hosted by the lady of the house. The hemlines are usually a few inches below the knees and/or tea-length with full petticoats. Evening gloves were also a must. In the early 1960’s, the wiggle took front stage over the nipped in waist and full skirts from the 1950s. This is the time where the dazzling sequin fitted dresses were born and very sought after today. These lovely pieces are quite affordable ($40-$100+) despite their very glamourous appearance. Cocktail dresses can range from under $100 well into $500+ depending on the level of detail and overall condition.

Photo7 Photo8When we think of Old Hollywood Glamour, the first thing that comes to mind is breathtaking ball gowns. Ceil Chapman, Suzy Perette, Edith Head, and Dior are just a few of the top in their class when it comes to ball gowns, cocktail dresses and movie costumes. If you want to drool over amazing fashion I highly recommend watching old movies from the 30’s, 40’s, 50’s and 60’s. These designers often only outfitted the very rich and famous. Department stores were the popular place to find fancy dresses for the everyday housewife. As you can imagine, the current price tag for such lavish gowns are reflective of their elegance. For example, a Ceil Chapman dress on the lower end starts at $500 and goes well into the thousands. There are definitely more affordable unbranded vintage gowns within reasonable price range; I recently acquired one on Etsy for $200USD (originally listed at $400).

photo9William Travilla Gown worn by Marilyn Monroe at the premier of “How to Marry a Millionaire”. photo10Edith Head gown worn by Grace Kelly at the Oscars

There are a plethora of timeless vintage treasures to collect from the era we all know and love; swimsuits, playsuits, handbags, jewelry, and so on but it’s best to start off slow, research and build your collection one piece at a time. If you’re unsure if vintage is really for you, or looking for some tip and tricks on how to get started, please visit my post “Venturing into the unknown“.

Categories: All Posts, Clothing, Vintage | Tags: , , | 2 Comments

Venturing Into The Unknown…

Since the very beginning of Pin Up Persuasion, I have been dedicated to sharing my expertise solely towards the vast online world of Vintage Reproduction Clothing since it was what I knew best. What I didn’t expect was this journey to lead me into unknown territory and discover a whole new world of fabulousness. It will probably come as no surprise to those who follow me on Facebook and Instagram, that I will now be sharing my new found love of genuine vintage clothing. So many of my readers have been here since the very beginning and we have all learned together along the way. With this new venture, it is my plan to share the Dos and Don’ts to buying vintage for beginners just like me. That being said, Pin Up Persuasion will still be your go to place for vintage reproduction reviews but it will also have a portion dedicated to genuine vintage in the months to follow.

shopping1Although I started purchasing vintage earlier last year, I am still quite green and in the process of learning the basics. Recently a fellow vintage dealer kindly recommended an incredible guide book (“The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping by Melody Fortier which can be found on Amazon.com) for those seeking what to look for when purchasing vintage clothing. I am about halfway through reading the Guide at this point and I find Melody’s advice extremely informative. This is a wonderful book for all vintage enthusiasts to learn about the general history behind each decade in fashion and how to apply this knowledge today when shopping for vintage. I’ll be adding post it notes to several sections for quick reference later on.

the-little-guide-to-vintage-shopping-2If you intend to purchase vintage, the one thing you must have is PATIENCE! If you are fortunate enough to have local thrift stores or flea markets in your neck of the woods, those gems won’t be easily found unless you are prepared to dig into the overflowing racks, piles, or old musty boxes. This is most commonly known as the thrill of the hunt, since it can lead to some incredible finds for a fraction of the cost. For people like me that are not so lucky to have such places close by, we must rely on the powers of the internet to find such fabulous treasures. Since someone has done the dirty work of digging, cleaning and often mending these items…the prices will reflect the time invested by the seller. Patience is vital when shopping online as you will be spending hours and hours searching. The challenge is getting the stars to align – your style, your size and your budget. But when the stars align magic happens.

2fb4ef5d01527903b9d84e54a7d14fa2My strength has always been online shopping and this has been no different with my new found love of vintage clothing. Every treasure I have purchased to date has been from Etsy, Ebay and Facebook Groups. These are the cream of the crop when it comes to variety and a plethora of vintage listings. Don’t get me wrong, there are several online independent vintage retailers out there but I personally have not found any to have near the same selection and bargains. There is so much to consider when purchasing vintage; the condition, the fit, the age, the designer, the price, the wearability, etc.

shoppingHopefully I haven’t overwhelmed you already; this is just the start of an incredible new journey! I welcome you the readers to tell me what YOU would like to see in upcoming vintage features. We will learn together and help each other along the way.

Categories: All Posts, Vintage | Tags: , , , | 9 Comments

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